History of Lytton

Lytton's past is closely linked to the Thompson and Fraser Rivers that converge here. The First Nations people called this merging of two great rivers "Camchin," which means "the forks."

For more than 10,000 years they lived near the rivers, relying on them for food and using them for transportation, as corridors for their footpaths, and as convenient places to build their villages.

Archaeological sites provide evidence that the winter homes of the First Nations people were constructed on benches above the river, always within easy access of the water. Hundreds of sites have been identified beside the Thompson and Fraser, and the present site of Lytton was used continuously for almost 10,000 years.

Simon Fraser Descends the River

In 1808 Simon Fraser and his men descended the river that now bears his name. He was the first recorded European to contact the First Nations people in the Interior. When he arrived at The Forks more than 1200 Interior Salish Indians came to meet him and shake his hand.

Simon Fraser portaged most of the river from 160 km upstream to 100 km downstream of The Forks.

First Descents

First Descent of the
Lower Fraser River

The first complete descent of the Fraser took place 20 years later when Governor Simpson of the Hudson's Bay Company sent James Yale (the town of Yale BC is named after him) and a dozen men in canoes down the entire river from Fort Alexandria (near Quesnel) to Fort Langley (near Vancouver).

At the same time that James Yale and his men were descending the Fraser, Governor Simpson and Archibald McDonald and their men were descending the Thompson River for the first time.

They rendezvoused at The Forks and together descended the lower Fraser all the way to Fort Langley. To read their full, fascinating story click on First Descents.

Gold Rush 1858

The Forks changed radically when gold was discovered on the Thompson River 16 km (10 miles) above Lytton in 1858. Thousands of miners worked their way up the Fraser River and within a few years the town was booming.

Governor James Douglas in Victoria named The Forks after his superior in England , Bulwer Lytton, the Secretary of the Colonies. Also a novelist, Bulwer Lytton is best known for his most famous novel The Last Days of Pompeii and the line "It was a dark and stormy night."

During the gold rush Lytton became the hub of the interior. A thriving town sprang up complete with a gaol (jail), government buildings, and a court of law. The BC Archives are full of references to Lytton's colourful past.

The First Fly Fishing in British Columbia

The famous "hanging judge," Judge Mathew Begbie, visited Lytton in March 1859 for a few days of court and took his fly rod to the mouth of the Thompson River. This is the first recorded fly fishing on a river in British Columbia. Apparently he caught no fish.

Cariboo Wagon Road

With the influx of thousands of miners it was necessary to construct a road into the Interior goldfields. Between 1861 and 1863 the Cariboo Wagon Road was built; the most difficult and treacherous section was between Yale and Lytton along the Fraser River.

Cariboo Waggon Road Above Spences Bridge along the Thompson River

Known as the 8 th Wonder of the World, the engineering that went into the road construction was a marvelous accomplishment. Remnants of the road still exist, although the railways and the 1920 Fraser Canyon Highway wiped out most of this historic road.

Thompson River Bridge at Lytton 1876

The Wagon Road reinforced Lytton's role as the central hub of the Interior and it was suggested that "Lytton City" become the Capital of the Colonies. Unfortunately Governor Douglas wanted Victoria to fill that role and sure enough, Lytton City lost out.

Railway Construction

After the gold rush Lytton slumped from a booming town to a struggling little community until the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway in the 1880s. The town quickly grew to 10,000 residents.

During the construction of the railway the stern wheeler "Skuzzy" was launched on the Fraser River at Spuzzum. It worked its way up the Fraser through Hell's Gate (using a steam winch and 150 Chinese tugging on ropes) to Boston Bar and then on to Lytton.

Her job was to move railway supplies to camps along the Fraser, primarily between Boston Bar and Lytton.

Lytton's population dropped again after the completion of the CPR but resurged when the CNR construction began in 1910.

Lytton 1910-1930

Lytton was a beautiful town during the '20s with elaborate hotels, beautiful homes, and a thriving economy. Fires wiped out the town several times but each time it was rebuilt.

Lytton was Thriving in 1912

The Fraser Canyon Highway was built in the 1920s and contributed to Lytton's vibrancy. It was a day's journey by car from Vancouver. Lytton became known as " The Place Where Friends and Rivers Meet ".

Trans Canada Highway 1957

The construction of the Trans Canada Highway in the 1950s created a by-pass above town. No longer was it necessary to drive through Lytton and instead of a long day's journey from Vancouver the trip could now be done in five or six hours.

Lytton's population declined when the highway by-pass was created, and unfortunately has continued its decline until recently.

Lytton Today

The Town of Lytton: Where the Thompson & Fraser Rivers Converge

Today, one of North America's oldest continuously-inhabited settlements has only 375 residents with another 1200 living on the beautiful outskirts of the little town.

Now, as in the past, Lytton is closely linked to the Fraser and Thompson Rivers. Still a food source for the First Nations people, the rivers are also a source of adventure for thousands of tourists who come to run the whitewater of the Thompson every year.

One of British Columbia's top ten attractions, Kumsheen Rafting Resort, is based on the outskirts of Lytton and for more than 30 years has shared the now legendary rapids of the Thompson River with thousands of thrill-seekers.

Several other companies also offer whitewater rafting trips on the Thompson and hundreds of kayakers flock to the river's huge waves and play holes in September and October.

Conclusion

From Lytton's early days to the present Lytton has had a strong relationship with the rivers that flow past its doorstep. Like lifeblood flowing through its veins, the majestic Thompson and mighty Fraser have nourished, enthralled, helped, and sometimes hindered or injured its people.

The rivers have been worshipped and cursed, adored and hated, admired and scorned.

On Labour Day they are celebrated. Come, join us in our celebration.